Through the mountain pass - day 14

The morning at the top of the mountains was foggy and misty. Very other worldly- I imagined dragons flying up out of the mist. Cod hear the bells of cows or goats grazing somewhere nearby. For more than 5 km was like walking Ina dream. 

Passed the Cruz de Ferro a famous cross where pilgrims have been leaving rocks from home for millennia.

Here are some close ups of the items left by the cross.

The sky cleared a little as we came across the pass and could see down into the valley of Ponferrada on the other side.

Then came the long steep descent. We dropped down 1000m vertical from 1500m to around 500m. It was hard on my knees. 

We came through several bio zones from alpine tundra into late spring valleys full of flowers and brooks. My phone was low on battery so no pics of the lovely towns and valleys. 

Feeling a bit homesick and tired- so I have a hotel room tonight and am enjoying the privacy of my own shower and bed with sheets and plug to charge my phone.

Rainbow path- day 13

For 2 hours we walked the rainbow path. Up into the mountains where the sun shining onto the clouds made a rainbow that lasted all morning.

We walked from Sta Catalina through two beautiful towns with all the houses made of stone.

We climbed up through the moutains full of blooming purple heather

For the past 3 days we have been finding inspirational quotes from Philippe usually one in French, on English and one Spanish

The Camino is full of impromptu  quotes and monuments. There were hundreds of meters of a fence decorated with thousands of crosses made by passing pilgrims of whatever materials are available.

Tonight's town is rather bleak- windswept and falling down at the top of a mountain pass.  

Through Astorga and entering the mountains - day 12

I

A little rainbow across the sky when we started walking.

About 5 km along the road is 

A man who lives in the little shelter to the right and sets out a full kitchen for pilgrims to help themselves- fruit, tea, coffee, hard boiled eggs, peanut butter for Americans.   There is a little labyrinth and the word say that the essence of life is presence. Leave a donation of you like. I had a little snack and got a stamp inh pilgrim credential.

Walked into Astoga- it was the festival for the patron saint of Astorga Saint Tiribio. There was a high mass with 6 priests even the bishop when we arrived. So attended mass and got to see the cathedral interior.

The Gaudi palace was closed- this is all we could see.

Had a fancy and delicious lunch withy walkinf companions Simone, Julia and Eva. 

Then walked another 9 km to Santa Catalina de Somoza.   We are climbing into the snow covered mountain. I am thinking of Lewis and Clark as they approached he mountain.

Scenes from day 11 - 4/27/14

Early morning- 9 km to first town and snack of fresh orange juice and plain cake .

On the morning path.

Ancient very long bridge to enter Hospital de Obrigo. Attended noon mass - gorgeous gold altar, choir, everyone dressed up  (except me). Delicious lunch of lamb ribs, salad, fried potatoes and red wine.

Advertisement for beer and 290 km to Santiago. I starts at 490km so I have walked 200 so far.

Afternoon path through the countryside. 5km to Santbanez.

18 km felt very comfortable. I am well fed and no blisters today :). Walking with very nice Spanish woman, Eva. All is well.

Vividness - day 10

It was a cold rainy walk for the first half of the day. Left Leon around 10 and walked through the city and out through the  surrounding suburbs for about 7km. 

The turned off onto a less traveled branch of the Camino that went through beautiful and more hilly county for another 13km.

These are little cuevas (caves). These may be....

- caves where people from this area made their homes until a few decades ago

- bodegas where people make wine and store it while it ages 

- place to store meat and coldcits while they age. 

I have been told all these explanations so one or all maybe true.

Today is my first day without blisters to care for. Yay! I bought some gel heel inserts in Leon and my heels seem to have finally turned the corner.   

Gel inserts + alleve = happy day

I am hopeful that the worst of the foot pain is over now. 

Everything today felt more vivid. The brightness of the colors when the sun came out, the flavors of the coffee, sandwich and apple, the coolness of the wind, the warmth of the shower at the end of the day, the companionship of my walking partners.  I feel more grateful for every part of the day- more aware of my shelter, water, food and weather.

Tonight I stay in a private albergue in Villar de Mazarife.  Here is the fireplace with the albergue owner. I am warm and cozy.

Rest and luxury in Leon- day 9

The cathedral in Leon is beyond belief with  unending richly colored stained glass.

It has a simple yet breathtaking grandeur- I thin you could study the details of the building your whole life and still keep finding new things.

 Carving on just one of the seats in the choir. Each figure with so much character.

I took the bus from mansilla de las mulas a 30 minute ride. It was strange to arrive so quickly in a new place - when walking you see the destination and all the small changes in landscape, building and road as you approach a new town. Traveling on the bus I felt thrown into the town without time to notice where I was going.

I booked a luxury room in Hospederia Pax- a hotel within a monastery with pilgr albergue next door. It is beautiful and fancy and lonely. I took an amazing bath then in fine pilgrim style threw my clothes in the tub to wash. Note marble walls, whirlpool jets and dirty clothes. 

Tonight I will go to vespers and evening prayer/ pilgrim blessing with the nuns in the convent.

Flowers of Day 8

Saw the first little airport today with flying lessons

Here's the little airport. 

Camino continues through more flat plains- like Iowa with Spanish villages and no silos.

Walked 19km today - feet are no worse but no better either. I have a tenacious tough-skinned blister on the back of each heel. Walked 5km in sandals which was a good change for my feet.

Finally feel like I ate properly today wit enoug energy in to match the energy out The 8 days and 160 km are exhausting. Tomorrow I will take a bus 20km into the city of Leon and have a rest/tourist day there. 

Was getting bored with the flat road so decided to notice smaller details.

Here are some of the flowers I saw today

18 km along a road - day 7

So today's walk was not the most beautiful. It started cloudy with a little rain then got super windy and the sky cleared a bit. The whole 18 km paralled a road with a highway in the distance. 

Tonight I sleep in a public albergue with 6 people in my room. Got here around 3:00 took a shower washed my clothes and now I'm having red wine and some nuts.

 The weather is quite cool 50s and windy. 

Another surprise on the Camino is how any smokers there are. Lots of young and old that smoke.

My albergue 

Short Walk, Taxi and Rest - day 6

I walked 9 km and the decided to take a taxi 13km to the town of Sahagun. My feet were really hurting and it seemed deeper than just the blisters. After pushing too hard yesterday it felt like I needed a rest. 

Found a lovely Australian woman to share a hotel room- so we have 2 beds and our own bathroom - the height of luxury. 

Walked my 9km this morning with a 22 year old American womanwho is traveling  abroad for the first time. She was raised Jehovas Witness but chose not to stay in that community.  

One theme of today's conversations was the search for spiritual community and I was evangelizing Parker Palmer's books.

Late in the day went exploring and found the Miseum of Holy Week.  

The museum holds a half dozen ofthese ancient (18th century) larger than life platform scenes that depict the passion of grist- on great graphic detail. The heavy wooden platforms are carried in Holy Week processions amd require more than 20 people to carry each one.  The emotion and detail on each figure was incredible. One included a Christ with  movable arms who lays  in a decorated box but comes out on Good Friday and is raised up onto the cross. 

What a way to tell the story and have the whole community be involved!

26 Long Straight Km- day 5

The road today went along an old Roman            road. Very flat and straight.  17 km between albergues.  It was a long haul and my  feet and blisters were really hurting. The albergue was hidden behind a little hill until the last 200 m.  I had just run out of water and was so so glad to see the huge municipal albergue sign. 

I've tried a lot of different things to deal with my blisters. No good solution yet.  I will try to find a heel insert next time I get to a big town.

Here is my right heel with threads to wick out the blister. 

Met a lovely Spanish woman this morning . She is walking with her son- he's 21 now bit they starting doing the Camino in stages when he was 14. We walked 6 km that flew by. She also has family responsibilities and a bid network of support that makes it possible for her to come out and walk. It was really nice to talk with someone who understands the complexity and joy of the family connections and this journey. 

Here is Celia and me with the city of Carrion de Los Condes behind us

Spent a long time in 2 ancient churches in Carrion de Los Condes.  The flowers were still there from Easter and I lit some candles and sat in the incense scented beauty.